// BBC WORLD NEWS — MONDO
France targets Shein and Temu with fast fashion fees
Shein opened its first physical store in 2025 on the sixth floor of Paris department store BHV
France has started imposing fees on fast fashion items which could reach almost €20 per garment by 2030, as the government tries to curb sales of cheap clothing sold by e-commerce sites.
The levy, which came into force on Tuesday, follows a new law passed in June to regulate so-called "ultra-fast fashion" companies such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.
The e-commerce giants, known for selling large volumes of cheap apparel, have been criticised by French officials for driving a surge in fast fashion.
China's commerce ministry has described the French law as discriminatory and a trade barrier, saying it could violate World Trade Organization (WTO) principles.
French minister Mathieu Lefevre said the "harmful effects of ultra-fast fashion" on the environment and economy were "well known".
In July, Lefevre's office said the levy would not apply to retailers such as H&M or Zara, prompting some to say that the measure appeared to spare European companies.
Under the legislation, ultra-fast fashion will be determined according to two factors: the volume of clothing placed on the market and the cost of repairing garments relative to their purchase price.
The per-item fee will vary on a set scale according to how each product scores on both these standards.
For 2026, the charges range from a €0.50 (£0.43) levy on underwear to €2 (£1.71) for T-shirts, to €9 (£7.71) for jeans and €12 (£10.28) for a jacket.